Two Cases Of Good Husbandry

So when's the last time you saw an ad that quoted Virgil? 

(Don't miss that the shirts have an "eternal air of correctness", and that the pyjamas add "a lot to the pleasure of sleeping" and "If It Shrinks We Replace"!)

"Good Husbandry (the first of blessings, according to Virgil's Georgics) is to know how to separate wheat from chaff: how to select sound stock: how to choose good things that last well."
 "Like many of the best things of life - claret, wood and leather are examples - Clydella does more than last well: it improves with age: it weathers. This is a good reason for buying shirts, and pyjamas, in Cydellas."

"Clydella Town-and-Country Shirt"
"These are also weekend and everyday, winter and summer shirts. They have no close season. They are smooth, slightly on the lightweight side: hence their eternal air of correctness. They are made in a good range of close checks, dogstooth such as you see here, and plain colours. 49/6

"Cydella Pyjamas"
"These have a softness and lightness - and yet a great warmth - that adds a lot to the pleasures of sleeping. They may be had in both flamboyant and discreet stripes and in good straight colors. 59/6 Your usual store should have their Autumn stocks in now."

Century - Old Fabrics

In the February issue of Theatre Arts Monthly in 1929 we find an ad for Old Arts. G. O. Neddrie offering Century Old Fabrics.

 "Embroideries, velvets, brocades and damasks of the the XV to XVIII Centuries from the looms and cloisters of France, Spain, Italy, Flanders and England in Gothic, Renaissance and the designs of the masters during XVII and XVIII Century. Fabrics that will lend warmth and color to any room in the inimitable shadings that only age can impart."

I thought this might have been aimed at stage set designers or for costumes. But then I read the next part and I think they were advertising to the upscale folks who were around the theatre. 

"These fabrics are also ingeniously adapted to modern utilities: Book Ends, Picture Frames, Paper Baskets, Cigarette Boxes, Humidors, Cushions, Wall Hangings, Table Runners, Boudoir Boxes"

So now I am heart broken to think of how many priceless fabrics were made into Cigarette Boxes.
(I wasn't able to find out more about G. O. Niddrie, but it was a very prestigious address. Any of you know more?)

Rests Eyes After Sewing

"When hours spent over a sewing machine or embroidery frame have made your eyes feel weary and strained, simply apply a few drops of time-tried Murine."

Sorry, Waists Are Shrinking!

The 'Fashion Staff' at Pictorial Review in 1939 warns us of an up-coming crisis! You could choose from these patterns put out by Pictorial Review, but it looks like you had no choice about the fit...you were going to have to suck it in! 

"The full skirt and broad shoulders of the dress above conspire to make your waist look minuscule. The wide band seizing you through the middle dramatizes the contrast twixt wide hemline and tiny waist." Pictorial Review Pattern 9600

"The neck is high, the bodice draped and full, the skirt slim with a full draped panel. The waist is the focal point of the dress; a belt gathers the fabric to as few inches as your anatomy permits." Pictorial Review Pattern 9597

"A dress with swing pleats for action, extremely wide shoulders. Again the tidy, belted waist contrasts boldly with the more ample curves above and below. Not quite an hour-glass figger, but something like." Pictorial Review Pattern 9594

"The new dress that falls with full abandon from a round yoke, exactly like an old fashion shift! A nubbin of a belt clutches all the width of fabric firmly at the waist, giving you a Victorian middle." Pictorial Review Pattern 9604

Spring Wardrobe For A Smart Woman - 1936

For a spring wardrobe The Delineator magazine offers these 1936 guidelines. 

"We suggest the following color scheme for the wardrobe shown here: For your coat - a navy basketweave woolen; for your jacket dress - navy heavy sheer with white pique; for your suit - a natural or gray menswear suiting of the soft cashmere type; for the print - silk crepe with an apricot-rust ground and a pale blue figure; for the evening an ice white satin dress with ruby accessories and ruby-colored bengaline wrap."

Spring Is In The Air - Hats and Accessories from 1956

Ruth Mary Packard writing in the Ladies Home Journal in March, 1956 gives important advice for spring hats, purses, shoes, jewelry and gloves...what every well-dressed woman needs to know.

"Your hat has more size...let it enhance but not overwhelm you..it must be scaled to your features as well as your figure. The shape is important...be sure it is becoming. Leghorn is the straw of the season, in natural, black and pastel colors."

 "A shower of yellow flowers on a small pale yellow straw hat by John Frederics for a yellow tweed suit by William Popper, or for neutral costumes."

"Pongee-beige pumps (one in calfskin, one in suede with calfskin tips) matching Nettie Rosenstein's top-handle envelope. Bangle bracelets pick up the color of the calfskin pump at right."

"The leaf hat in blue by John Frederics, with a wearable, medium-sized brim, worn with a linen-weave silk dress by Mollie Parmis."

"A patent-leather slipper edged with white goes with a linen bag with bamboo frame. Sunburst jewel by Frederic Mosell, is a pin for many occasions, for a dress or a suit." 

"The charm of pale beige, gold and light bright red in spectator pumps that are right for all wools and tweedy mixtures, a slim ladyfinger of a bag in bright red strawcloth by Morris Moscowitz, a new shape to carry with suits."

"The hat of the year, the shape that sets a trend - in natural Milan draped with silk polka-dotribbon, by Aldolfo. The bag is strawcloth by Coblentz; the dress is a simple silk shantung by Jerry Parnis, quiet accompaniment for the excitement of the hat."

"Pale yellow combines beautifully with cocoa, browns, coral reds. Here are a shell-trimmed cotton-tweed bag, long slender pigskin gloves, a grained-leather spectator and a calfskin toe-strap slipper - all for town wools and tweeds."

Spring Is Still In The Air in 1956

The Fashion Editor, Wilhela Cushman, of The Ladies Home Journal offers these suggestions for spring, 1956. 

 "There's an abundance of fashion and the news is flexible...yielding gracefully to your choice as an individual, to your life and your needs."

 "The bow-back jacket with the slim paneled skirt in clear red wool by Arthur Jablow, worn with a black leghorn hat by Sally Victor, patent-leather envelope bag by Greta."

 "The Empire coat with a back bow detail by Charles James. Cape-collar coat in a princess silhouette by Christion Dior - New York."

"The suit with the deep pleats, in greige tweed, graceful silhouette by Philippe Tournaye.  Shiny black straw hat with a red rose by Aldolfo."

"Printed wool town suit in blue and white with a pleated skirt and velvet collar, by Ben Reig. Short blouse-back coat over a dark dress by Vincent Monte-Sano."

"Bolero suit in Prince of Wales plaid wool by Ben Reig, has pale yellow shantung blouse, yellow strawcloth beret, chamois doeskin gloves."

"Bolero silhouette with a pleated skirt, by Hannah Troy. Reefer suit - double breasted jacket with a pleated skirt by Herbert Sondheim." 

"Coat in spring-flower yellow - basket-weave wool with an easy flare, feminine neckline, with a white silk rose, by Arthur Jablow. The white toyo hat is draped with yellow silk by Aldolfo."

The Costume Look for Spring - 1956

From the March, 1956 Ladies Home Journal, some hope for spring!

"It will be a gay colorful spring - fabric tones are the loveliest ever. Your coat might be a lovely lemon yellow or one of the beautiful new reds - both cheerful colors.
 Your suit could be a heavenly sky blue or a soft turquoise, both so flattering. When you make your own clothes, a costume look is quite simple to plan. 
For instance, a print dress and a coat lined with the print, or a costume of separates with a skirt, matching blouse and short jacket. If you have a slim figure, make a sheath dress, top it with an important short coat." Nora O'Leary who was the pattern Editor of the Journal in 1956 shows off these select Vogue patterns." 

"One of the freshest, newest spring colors is yellow. Our coat is in a crisp pin-point wool worsted. The smooth shoulder extends into push-up sleeves, and pockets are in the front fitting lines. The lining is black-and-white silk surah in a delightful geometric design." Vogue S-4681

"The dress, of the same silk surah, has an easy skirt with front fullness and a flattering tie neckline. We have used shiny black for accent, in both a belt and a pocket-book." Vogue S-4681

"A costume of separates is practical as well as effective. We have chosen a heavy silk with a linen weave in a heavenly shade of blue. The skirt has unpressed pleats front and back; the matching blouse has self facings for detail. The waist length jacket has a high notched collar, covered buttons and two small pockets. The blouse and skirt together give the effect of a one-piece dress. The skirt and jacket could be worn with blouses, or the jacket over a printed silk dress." Vogue 8830

"Both the color and the design of this costume give it a slightly Oriental feeling. The slim turquoise sheath has a high empire line with a surprising neckline, short sleeves. Over it, the red wool coat has a frog closing at the neckline. The coat will go happily through the summer as a topper for your cotton dresses. The dress with white accessories will be a summer favorite." Vogue S-4682

Fashion Gleanings From Abroad - 1891

Demorest's Family Magazine was THE source of fashion information from 1879 to 1899. There were also articles about household management, art, travel logs and stories...a glimpse of the world for the homebound woman. But it cost $2.00 a year, about $52.00 now, so it was aimed at the middle class housewife. William Demorest was an interesting guy. He is largely credited with using his wife's Ellen Louise Demorest's paper pattern designs. She was a powerful woman dedicated to woman's rights and was an abolitionist. Part of why they sold so many patterns was that she brought French fashions to American women. Here are some of those suggestions.

She is Really A Glamorous Creature

What is this "glamour"? Nancy Tailor has the answer. At least she did in 1962. From a set of Beauty guides we have this list of "trappings of glamour". 

"For glamour, dear girl is for the men...designed to delight and enchant them into a state of love...to remind them forcibly of the difference between the sexes."

1. Laces
2. Lingerie touches
3. Furs...soft and flattering
4. Beautiful jewelry
5. Flowers
6. Perfume - a suggestion of fragrance, not a bath in it
7. Giddy hats...very flattering hats
8. Eye makeup...that adds intrigue or mystery - tastefully applied
9. Very sheer hose
10. Tall, thin heels
11. Soft glossy hair
12. Intense color
13. Dark, dramatic colors
14. Feminine pastels
15. Conversation pieces in accessories

For The Boy Who's 3 Or Less - Butterick Patterns from 1946

Woman's Day Magazine let's us know what the well dressed young man should be wearing in 1946. Each of these are from Butterick Patterns. Does your toddler have a Sailor Playsuit, a Sunday-Best Suit, a Smock Coat and a Snow Suit with Helmet? Better get busy! 

Last Seen Wearing...

The Case of the Missing Co-Ed... she was LAST SEEN WEARING - a gray skirt and a yellow sweater. Then she vanished..."Her face spells S-E-X to me," said Detective Frank Ford.

Tailor Maid - 1945 Fashion Model's 5 Way Suit

In The American Magazine, March 1945, we have Wendy Russell New York "top-flight fashion model and styling adviser to half a dozen manufactures" wearing a suit that "does duty for five costumes". Her "hat happened to cost a dollar, and her jewelry came from a junk shop."
This gave her panche, which freely translated, means "Put your hat over your right eye."
It doesn't hurt she is "standing  before a Vertes screen"!

Be First With Fredricks!

This fabulous Fredrick's ad from 1966 came on the back of the TV Prevues insert in the Seattle PI Newspaper. This might have come to my house. And I clearly remember studying these ads closely. I KNEW they were for bad women, certainly nobody I knew wore these sorts of things.  I didn't really know (at age 10) what a 'bad woman' was. But I did feel like I was missing out on something important. Would I ever look like that? Could I ever wear that play suit? 
Turns out I still don't have the answer to that question. 

Probably.